Iceland – On the road between fire and ice
The longing for wide open spaces
„Every year it’s the same thing: all of a sudden it’s there, this feeling of discomfort. All my joie de vivre turns into the opposite. Strangeness in my own body. Slow-motion feeling. It’s as if I were chloroform pregnant: I feel downright lacking in drive. Everything is hanging over my head: this grinding in everyday life, this forced, boundless activity – and above all the weather. For weeks, the lead-grey cloud banks of these cold and wet days outside the windows have weighed down on …“
(from the book: Von der Wüste und vom Meer by Wilfried Erdmann and Archill Moser)
… my hometown. Those words could have been mine. The temperatures are at zero, constant wind from the northwest full of slush or rain is laying down on my mood. At the end of the year, the Christmas markets and the smell of mulled wine are a distraction. But once Christmas is over, „my soul hangs down like a weeping willow“. This eternal grey. I like it black or white or real winter with snow as far as you can see or summer that is so warm that you can sit outside for a long time in the evening.
Before the mood changes completely, I start to plan my next holiday. One week in February I have together with my daughter, my diving and travel partner. Amazingly, this time we are not driven to the warm waters of the Red Sea. This time we want something new. Something completely different. Our choice is Iceland, the country where fire and ice are at home, and of course the northern lights.
This time we do not have much time for planning and preparations. Quickly book a flight and a self-drive round trip, another travel guide book, and get a room in Reykjavik. By coincidence I still find waterproof, warm trousers. We don’t have anything like that in our travel equipment yet, which is rather designed for warmer climates.
A few days later we are on our way to the icy north of Europe.
There is that wonderful tingling in the stomach again, a feeling of liveliness when it starts again. The excitement and curiosity are greater than the fear of the unknown.
Reykjavik
Arrival in Reykjavik in the rain. It thaws. But until we start our first city tour the weather has changed several times. The light fades early here, but there is enough time for a walk in the centre. Start the big city lake Reykjavíkurtjörn. Thick ice covers the huge area. So thick that you can play football on it. Wow. How beautiful. It brings back childhood memories. But you can also slip on the centimeter-thick ice on the sidewalk. This really demands my attention. We’ll stroll through old town, take a look around, and we’ll get there. In the harbour a first view of the mountains. The heart becomes wide and happy, simply free and unrestrained desire for what is coming. Meanwhile it is dark and the icy cold wind whistles around our ears. Time to read and prepare the next days.
We use the next day for a detailed tour between comfortable wooden houses and the architectural modernity. The sun is shining. The sky is of a supernatural blue. It is beautiful. We enjoy the view from the Hallgrimskirkja and find a rustic little park with sculptures by Einar Jónsson, a delicious Icelandic lunch in the Cafe Loki.
We don’t feel like visiting sights or museums in this weather.
On the way
The next day we start our road trip. The excitement increases. What will it be like? What can we expect? Also the road conditions.
Shortly after Reykjavik snow and empty roads. Suddenly the sky opens up and we find ourselves in a beautiful snowy landscape as far as our eyes can see. Gullni hringurinn, better known as the Golden Circle, with its beautiful National Park Pingvellir, the geyser Strokkur and the impressive waterfall Gulnarfoss and much more are on the program.
That doesn’t sound like much at first. The distances are short. But so are the days. At six o’clock it is dark. To that everything takes longer because many roads are icy or even closed. The rest of the way to the hotel we drive in the dark. But thanks GOD for talking navigation systems.
Fjords, untouched plateaus and Icelandic horses
The next day the landscape changes completely. We come to the fjords. High mountains down into the sea, which is sometimes steel grey and sometimes turquoise. After each curve a new amazement about the great nature. A musical intermezzo in the lighthouse of Akranes (famous for its incredible acoustics), a bath in the hot springs of Krauma, „shortcuts“ through lonely plateaus full of trusting Icelandic horses, a lot of untouched space and numerous waterfalls make this day unforgettable.
Today it has been dark for a long time when we reach the last point on our route. There is nothing to see anymore. Only the breaking of huge waves could be heard in the darkness. After some searching we reach our accommodation, the Arnarstapi Cottages, completely exhausted.
Snaefelsnes, the land of the trolls and an entrance to the center of the earth
The coast is rough, the wind strong, the wave crests huge. The water fascinates me, and the incredible force with which it thunders onto the rocks or onto the beach. I can hardly get enough of the spectacle. Then it goes into the darkness. 45 m below the earth’s surface into an old lava shaft. The thought is somehow creepy. Especially if you consider all the active volcanoes on Iceland.
The following landscape is characterized by funny rock formations. With a little bit of imagination you can see them: the trolls and how they play around.
Our route stays close to the coast, passing seal banks and beautiful cliffs and beaches. The weather is as varied as the landscape. From bright sunshine to icy gusts of wind and thunderstorms, today we got it all.
I learn to sail on the ice at Kirkjufell mountain. In the north of Snaefellsnes the sun is shining again after a short shower and gives the fishing town of Stykkisholmur a cosy touch. From here, one can get a glimpse of the impressive Westfjords. Their visit is definitely on the agenda for the next Iceland trip. Now we drive back to Reykjavik passing the impressive cliff of Gerduberg, which we mistakenly assumed to be on the coast.
The Blue Lagoon and the bridge of the continents
So we stand only a few minutes with our feet on different continents. Also the visit of the blue lagoon and the hot springs near Reykjanesviti is shorter. But it is enough for long walks along rough coasts with their lighthouses and wrecks as well as the volcano Kedir.
One last day in the capital
We spend our last day with flea market, the best hot dogs, a visit in Perlan and of course in the Christmas shop. And with that a varied week full of impressions and experiences in the land of fire and ice comes to an end.
